Probleme placă electronică Ferroli

[razvan_n]

Centrală Ferroli DomiProject F24D. Dă eroare A01 - „arzătorul nu se aprinde”. Ei bine, există gaz, există scânteie, arzătorul se aprinde, dar flacăra se stinge aproape imediat cu alarma de mai sus. Cel mai probabil nu sesizează curentul de ionizare dintre electrodul de aprindere și arzător, adică „nu vede flacăra”, deși aceasta există (am văzut-o cu ochii mei). Pus altă placă, cu aceea merge. Încerc să repar placa originală.

 Am dat jos cei 3 condensatori albaștri din apropierea transformatorului de înaltă tensiune (dreapta jos în poză). Toți 3 arată bine pe aparat, dar vreau să-i înlocuiesc pentru că la tensiune mare tot e posibil să facă probleme. Piesa neagră este un tiristor X0403DF, are rost să-l probez și pe acela?

Are cineva o schemă de la o astfel de placă? Chiar dacă nu e fix modelul ăsta... vreau să înțeleg cum se verifică prezența flăcării.

Mulțumesc!

[validae]

Tiristorul nu are probleme, fiind folosit la aprindere.Verifică și rezistorii din circuitul de supraveghere, mai ales cei de valori mici.Am găsit intrerupti...dar de obicei sunt condensatori MKP din circuitul de sesizare al flăcării devalorizați grav. De văzut și starea electrodului de flacără, să nu fie scurtat de uzură....

[Craciun]

Salut,

Am avut acelasi defect la centrala Baxi Luna 240FI si a fost electrodul de flacara defect.

 

BR/Daniel

 

[Spitfire]

 In primul rand, schimbati electroliticul de 1uF/450V, de regula e un Elna, si e complet uscat. Ideal, daca nu va displace estetic, ati putea pune in locul lui un MKT/MKP, mult mai voluminos decat un electrolitic, dar mai durabil. Daca nu va e prea greu, schimbati tot electroliticii.

Si eu am acelasi tip de centrala, are 10 ani de functionare, i-am reparat singur toate bolile, fluxostat, placa electronica.

[razvan_n]

Electrodul e bun, l-am curățat de curând (dădea din când în când A51) și merge bine cu noua placă. Am și unul de schimb, la nevoie.

Am să încerc să înlocuiesc cât mai mulți dintre condensatori. Acel Elna de 1 uF/450 V unde se află? Am un Elna de 1 uF, dar fie la 100 V (lângă traful de înaltă), fie la 400 V (lângă cel de filtraj de 1000 uF/35 V). Bănuiesc că e vorba despre acesta din urmă.

Voi verifica și rezistorii din zona de înaltă tensiune. Mulțumesc tuturor!

[Jomor]

Hello, did you manage to fix the A01 error and how?

I have exaclty the same problem with my Ferroli Fereasy F24D and ABM01 control board. The technician who examined the boiler said that the electrode is ok, gas pressure is ok and the main board has a fault. 

[razvan_n]

I have replaced all capacitors on the control board (not just the electrolytics). The furnace runs error-free since the end of January.

[Jomor]

Thank you for your help. I will do the same. I have measured all the electolytics and they all where ok except one 100uF that was found 85uF. I am planning to replace them all with new "long life" capacitors (probably rubicon bxc series). I will follow your advice and replace the mkt ones too. Years ago I had the low input voltage F34 error which I fixed by replacing the C21 capacitor (1uF/400V).

[razvan_n]

To make sure I get genuine capacitors, I ordered from TME.eu (the electrolytics from Nichicon and polyester/polypropylene caps from Kemet and Vishay).

I could not find all proper sizes (mainly due to finding some caps that had higher voltage than the originals) so I had to to some terminal routing around other parts, but the board cover finally fitted.

 

Here's a market opportunity: selling recap kits for various furnace models. Put in the right types of capacitors - brand, size, terminal pitch and electrical characteristics - and the customer would gain a lot of time (I spent quite some time with a caliper before ordering and a lot of time with my needle nose pliers before soldering).

[manolo]

Verifica daca ventilatorul de evacuare functioneaza ,deobicei comanda este data cu un releu,daca ventilatorul nu functioneaza nu vei avea flacara,

[Jomor]

I replaced all capacitors and the relays with new ones. All new components were measured before soldering for verification. Soldering done carefully and inspected with magnifier. I connected the board and C11 ( 1000uF/35V ) exploded, seconds later the RCCB of the house went off. I replaced the capacitor with the old one, RCCB stayed on but the board gives me an F10 error (short circuit). No signs of living on the ferroli thermostat's display also. Just F10 on the pcb's display. I removed the board from the boiler and connected phase (via incandescent lamp), neutral and ground on the table to test the pcb. I get an F10 error (short circuit), voltage at C11 is 28V dc and total power consumption of the board is 1.9watt. Is 28volt a correct voltage? Even if its wrong, is it enough to cause a 35v capacitor to explode all liquid everywhere?  Nothing else seems burned or shorted. I can't figure out what went wrong. I just replaced each component with a new one of the same value. Capacitor polarities where double checked. Could it be the lower ESR of the new capacitors causing a problem? Any ideas?

[razvan_n]

I haven't measured any voltages on my board. Anyway, 28 Vdc cannot be the cause of a 35 V capacitor explosion unless it had reverse polarity.

[Jomor]

It seems that on my anxiety I have read the error table on the manual the wrong way. F10 means it does not see a temperature sensor, or there is a short on the related circuit. So with a help of the circuit diagram on the users manual i connected 3 resistors simulating the ntc sensors (pins 13-14, 15-16, 17-18) and a short (pins 5-6) i managed to boot the board on the bench without errors. I hope that I had the 35v capacitor inversed and this was the problem, even thoogh i am pretty sure it was correct. Now I have to verify if the 28V is a problem or not, the relays are 24V and i generally have the idea that the dc voltages are 24V and 5V on the board. Then i have to see what was wrong with the thermostat not showing anything and after that to see if i get a flame detection (which was the problem in the first place). Thanks again for the help.

[Jomor]

Flame detection problem solved. It seems that the blue mkp capacitors next to the ignition coil were the cause of the problem, even though their capacitance was measured just fine. I replaced all mkp and electolytics, but considering this video (different board but same principle)  the mkp are probably the cause.

C57 = 10nF / 100V  LS5

C23 = 470nF / 250V  LS10

C35 = 1.5uF / 250V LS15

(LS = lead spacing)

 

your help was very important, thank you very much.

 

 

[razvan_n]

As I wrote in my first post in this thread, I planned to replace all three blue capacitors near the high voltage transformer because at high voltage they might act differently than measured at low voltage (regular capacitor tester showed them in good health).

Congratulations!